Tracy Arm Cove to Tracy Arm Cove 44 miles 4 hours

There are heavy clouds but we decided to head into Tracy Arm and look for the glacier.  The icebergs aren’t as big as we have seen in the past, but there are sure a lot of them.  We have had to dodge of lot of “bergie bits”.  About half way in during a moment of inattention…we hit an iceberg.  Not the Titanic size but enough to cause an abnormal vibration.  !@#$ we are pretty sure we bent a prop. Fred checked below and we aren’t taking on any water.  Well, the fun just went out of this trip today.  We could actually see Sawyer Glacier in the distance.  We found a good place to turn around and headed back to Tracy Arm Cove.  The cove was empty when we arrived and we could pick anywhere to anchor.  We chose the far western corner near the outlet of a stream.  This is a beautiful spot but when we hit low ride we were touching the eel grass below.  Way too shallow.  We could pull anchor and move or pull in some anchor chain to pull us further out.  We chose the latter.  All in all, not a fun day.

Tracy Arm Cove

Fred woke me up to see a brown bear (grizzly bear) walking on the beach near where we are anchored.  If it weren’t raining we might have taken the dinghy over for a closer look.  He was huge and didn’t look like he missed any meals.  This is why we are here. Our very own National Geographic Tour.

Fanshaw Bay to Tracy Arm Cove 4 hours, 41 miles

We had a noisy, rocky rolly night last night.  The tide just rushes through this bay.  Merlin kept wanting to get in bed with us (this is a no no).  I was up several times with Merlin and Fred was up to do anchor checks.  With all the wind (up to 28 mph) and current, we didn’t move an inch.  We are more and more pleased with our Rocna anchor.  http://cruises.about.com/od/alaskacruises/ig/Tracy-Arm-Alaska/

Petersburg to Fanshaw Bay

3¼  hours    38 miles

Wrangell to Petersburg 4¼ hours, 43 miles

We started out in some fog which was a concern but it lifted by the time we neared Wrangell Narrows.  We saw many fishing boats but our course was clear. Wrangell Narrows is a narrow passage through which most of the north-south traffic flows.  One can encounter the Alaska Ferry or a log boom.  We were lucky to see little traffic.  One must maneuver and stay between the red and green buoys.   This would be rather dangerous in the fog.  In clear weather it is rather fun.  Petersburg is called Alaska’s Little Norway.  http://www.ci.petersburg.ak.us/
The Norwegian flag is flown next to the US flag all over town.  Petersburg has also one of Alaska’s most prosperous fishing fleets. This is evident in the majority of boats in harbor are fishing vessels. 

Wrangell

It has rained hard all day.   Instead of taking the dinghy over to town or going for a cruise we just did projects around the boat.  When we decided to put the dinghy back up, we noticed a rusty colored dust on the swim platform.  Fred thinks it is metal shavings from when he cut the old lock off of the chain to lock up the boat.  We scrubbed with soap but the discoloration is still there.  Something else to worry about.

Wrangell

It sky is a bright blue and the water is aquamarine, just like the gem stone.  It is amazing. After taking Merlin for a long walk, we left him on the boat so we could go into shops. We decided to put the dinghy down and motor over to the float at the foot of the main street.  We have our starboard to the dock.  We were starting to lower the dinghy from the starboard side of the boat when we realized that the davit doesn’t extend far enough.  I had a bright idea. Fred went on the dock and loosened the mooring lines so we could move the stern of the boat away from the dock so we could lower the dinghy between the boat and the dock.  After it was in water I was able to swing the dinghy to the stern. Fred tightened up the lines again.   We went into town and sat out on the deck looking out at Frederick Sound at the Stikine Inn Hotel.  The food was great even if the service wasn’t.

Meyers Chuck to Wrangell 5 hours, 53.7 miles

We had a lovely trip up Clarence Straight is bright sun.  Wrangell is one of our favorite destinations in Alaska.  http://wrangell.com/
They have resisted being a cruise ship destination.  There isn’t a single high end jewelry store here.  When I called the harbormaster for a slip assignment I was told to check out the new marina just south of town (Heritage Harbor).  We entered and indeed there are two 350’ docks with power and water.  There is plenty of room on the dock and several folks came out of nearby boats to catch the lines.  When we got settled we wanted to go into town.  This is when we realized that this is a great marina but it is over a mile to town.  We headed out anyway and were pleased to see things haven’t changed.  After wandering around we found our usual latte place and called for a taxi.  When Fred told the cab people that we had a dog with us they weren’t going of take us.  However, Fred assured them that we had a small dog which would sit on a lap.  It cost $9 for that mile trip back to the marina.

Ketchikan to Meyers Chuck 3 hours, 37 miles

Everything looks so beautiful in the sun.  Meyers Chuck is a cove off of Clarence Straight.  We’re not sure of it’s origin but there is a community here of about 20-30 homes. They range from clapboard shacks to very nice homes with walls of windows facing the water.  They have a small dock which is open to anyone with no charge.  There was room on the dock but we decided to anchor out.  Fred installed the new battery in the dinghy before we put it down to go to shore for a walk. Fred tried to start the outboard but it wouldn't start.  We were afraid that something serious was wrong when Fred checked and saw he had hooked the battery up back wards.  After he figured this out and corrected it we were on our way. There is a well worn path that follows the shore and reached most of the homes.  Some of them can only be reached by boat.  At the head of the dock there is a bulletin board, phone booth, and a mailbox. Fred was reading the bulletin board and of course picked on the notice of a women there that bakes sticky buns and will deliver to your boat. She is also the local post master. Yes, they have there own zip code. Mail twice a week via float plane. She was telling us several families order groceries to be delivered on the float plane. Pretty cool.  Apparently local calls from the phone in the booth to local homes are free. Fred called and will have sticky buns in the morning. There are colorful wildflowers everywhere and Merlin is having a great time.

Ketchikan

We decided since we were hanging out here that we would do a tourist activity, Bering Sea Crab Fisherman’s Tour.  http://56degreesnorth.com/
The Aleutian Ballad is docked near us in the city Floats. This fishing vessel is a little over 100 feet long and was used during the second season of Deadliest Catch. We have never watched it but it follows crab fishermen in the Bering Straight of Alaska.  These fishing boats go out for weeks at a time and can be caught in winds of 50-70 mph and 20-30 foot seas.  This is said to be most dangerous occupation in the world.  The Aleutian Ballad has been re-fit to function as a research and education vessel.  There is stadium seating and glass tanks in front of us for them to place the creatures brought up in their pots.  It is literally raining side-ways but that is no deterrent.  We were the first to board because everyone else was coming off a cruise ship.  Initially a huge cage was pulled up containing several Alaskan King Crab and an octopus. A fellow picked up the octopus for us to see and then it was placed in the salt water tank in front of us.  As the octopus hit the water it let go with a huge stream of ink.  Poor thing.   Each member of the crew held a crab for all of us to see closely (well, not too closely). These Kinjg Crabs get as big as 4-5 feet from tip to tip. The crabs were then placed back in the cage and sent back down into the sea.  The crew members were all professional fishermen.  There talk was not scripted and all of our questions were answered as well as some wonderful anecdotes.  Next a pot containing Dungeness crab was pulled onto the deck.  We weren’t allowed close to these fellows because this type of crab in so combative.  Apparently a Dungeness can kill a King crab.  These crabs in the pot were again placed back into the sea.  The last pots pulled looked like a barrel with holes in it. This is an octopus trap.  There is a very small hole that the octopus from fit through.  We were told that an octopus can fit through any space that its beak (mouth) can fit through.

Ketchikan

I called Alaska Car Rental and was surprised that they had a car available for $69/day and they would come to pick us up.  We rented a Chevy Impala (OK but I wouldn’t buy one).  It was pretty clean and had 44,000 miles on it.  I think it was 2006.  There are 40 miles of road here in Ketchikan but you can’t get off the island.  We drove from one end of Ketchikan to the other.  There are campgrounds, hiking trails and totem poles to look at.  The real reason we had a car was to do grocery shopping and to buy a new battery for the dinghy.  Fred had charged the heck out of the battery but it wouldn’t hold a charge.

Ketchikan

Aside from enjoying the town, we are waiting for two packages to arrive. One is from Heather and containing some mail order medications and the other is parts for the boat.  Fred ordered new thruster propellers to replace the one that were broken off in Shearwater. He also ordered a new shower sump pump to replace the one that appears clogged and the shower water is therefore leaking into the bilge.  Fred is really tired off bailing soapy water out of the bilge every day.  The boat parts will not arrive until the 20th.

Foggy Bay to Ketchikan 3 hours, 35 miles

FUEL:  184 gallons @ $3.99/gallon
We left Foggy Bay at low tide.  Boy is this place rocky.  As we left the bay and entered Revillagigedo Channel we were met with four foot swells and fog.  We estimate about three mile visibility.  The swells fell to two to three feet and a following sea as we made our turn into Tongass Narrows. We saw the cruise ship, Golden Princess, appear out of the fog heading south.  Fred called US Customs and confirmed our arrival in Ketchikan.  He informed them that we were going to stop at Petro Marine to top off our fuel tanks before we docked.  They said to call from the fuel dock and someone would come to us there.  There were two boats on the fuel dock when we arrived.  We waited off the dock for one of the boats to leave.  We thought everything was cool when we got a hail on the radio from Ketchikan Coast Guard.  The fuel dock is next to the Coast Guard docks.  Fred answered and thought for sure we were in trouble.  However, they just wanted to let us know that the boat we were in front of would be leaving soon.  Fred laughed and told them he thought we were going to get in trouble and they answered back that the folks on their boat were looking at us with envy.  The Customs officer met us and came aboard.  She checked our passports, Nexus, boat documentation and Merlin’s vaccination record.  She was very nice and welcomed us to Alaska.  We are hoping to get a slip at the City Floats (Casey Moran).  We called the Harbor Master and he said that he thought is was full down there but that it is open moorage so go ahead and check it out.  If not that there was plenty of room at Bar Harbor.  We eased into this small marina that is located down at the city front of Ketchikan.  The entrance is between the cruise ship docks and it is a little intimidating passing under the bow of one of those ships.  We saw that friends of ours on Teddi Bear (Teddi & John Hozemer) were there.  We were very lucky to find the last slip available and it was big enough for us. With these wonderful communicators that came with the boat I was able to guide Fred back into the slip.  Here we are with downtown Ketchikan off our stern and a cruise ship off our bow.  I couldn’t wait to get off the boat and get some “retail therapy”.  http://www.city.ketchikan.ak.us/

Wednesday, July 13 Prince Rupert to Foggy Bay, Alaska 5 hours 58 miles

FUEL:  1400 liters = 370 gallons            ouch!

We were a little worried about getting onto the fuel dock since Prince Rupert is mainly a fishing town.  Those fishing boats are cut throat about getting fueled and getting out.  We got up at 6 am hoping to be on fuel dock before it opened at 7 am.  Well, there were three fishing boats on the dock by 6:30 am.  We had a slip at the marina that looks right out at the fuel dock.  We were off the dock and in line for fuel at 7:30am.  Fred did a great job of getting out of our slip, around the breakwater and onto the dock perfectly!  This place is very industrial.  Pleasure boats are by far the minority here.  The hoses are down on the dock but the controls for the pump are up on the dock on shore.  There is no one to assist with hoses or lines.  Fred filled the two tanks (each holds 300 gallons) and then had to go up to the main dock to pay.  It is a very low tide and the ramp he has to use is practically vertical.   We finally are on our way at 8:20 am.  There is a narrow winding channel heading north from the bay (Venn Passage).  We have taken it many times but Fred does not want to take our larger boat through at low tide.  We added about an hour to our trip out to Chatham Sound.  Fred called US Customs in Ketchikan at 9:20 am.  They wished us a good trip and said we didn’t have to check in again until we were one hour out of Ketchikan.  We had about one foot chop until we passed Dundas Island and headed out into Dixon Entrance.  This piece of water is open all the way to Japan.  We encountered three to five foot swells.  They can be very uncomfortable.  When Fred increased our RPM to 2200 we were almost up on a plane and had a much smoother ride.  Poor Merlin was a basket case.  He needed to be cuddled and when the boat jerked he shook all over.   We followed two sailboats into Foggy Bay.  It has a narrow entrance off of Revillagigedo Channel.  The anchorage is lovely and protected.  We anchored behind an island that gave us a view of the channel outside. 

Tuesday, July 12 Prince Rupert

Fog started the morning but it burned off to a sparkling clear day.  Fred was frustrated because the chandlery here did not have any of the things he needed.  We took Merlin for a walk and then Fred sat and read while Joan enjoyed a little retail therapy.  There are eagle nests in the trees here and we saw a few eagles but many fewer than in past years.  We enjoyed excellent halibut & chips at the pub next to the marina.  

COWpuccinos

cruise ship terminal without a cruise ship

art project

Monday, July 11 Klewnuggit Inlet to Prince Rupert 5 hours 58 miles

We saw a BC ferry, one tub & tow (barge) and a couple of fishing boats (not fishing) as we traveled the rest of the way in Grenville Channel up to Chatham Channel.  We called Prince Rupert Rowing & Yacht Club (PRR&YC).  I think they have members but will rent slips to non-members when available.  The told us they weren’t sure yet if there would be any room so we planned on anchoring in Pilllsbury Cove to wait. We cruised by the city front and checked out the fuel dock. There is only one in town and pleasure boats are way outnumbered by pleasure craft.  We were not comfortable fighting our way in with the fishing boats so went off to anchor.  There is pretty good wind and chop in the cove.  After dinner I noticed that our anchor had slipped.  I always place on mark (ý) on the chart plotter where the boat is when first anchored.  The good new is that we were not near any rocks, however, the anchor needs to be re-set if we are to stay here.  Fred called the PRR&YC to see how it looked for a slip tonight.  Jeff at the marina called at 7 pm to say our slip was ready.  We had a side-tie on the inside of the floating dock.  A really good spot.  After securing the boat we went off for a walk.   Most everything was closed but the weather was sunny and the walk felt very good.  On our way back to the boat we stopped and got a scoop of ice cream at Cowpuccinos.  This area of Prince Rupert is called Cow Bay and the cow motif is everywhere.  It is really cute. 

Sunday, July 10 Khutze Inlet to Klewnuggut Inlet 6 ½ hours 71 miles

We had enough crab to have a crab omelet this morning and I froze two more cups for later.  We have a long trip today in hazy sunshine.  The water was flat the whole way.  We traveled to Fraser Reach ® MaKay Reach ® Wright Sound ® Grenville Channel.  Grenville channel is a long, straight channel that leads to Prince Rupert.  This channel is used by the ferries, cruise ships, tugs & barges and the rest of us.  We have continued to be surprised by the lack of marine traffic.  We stopped for the night in a large inlet named Klewnuggit.  We traveled about five miles back into a lovely cove.  This inlet is about the halfway mark in Grenville channel. 

Saturday, July 9 Khutze Inlet

Early this morning this valley was shrouded in fog.  It was spectacular as it lifted and the bright sun came out.  Fred went and pulled one of the crab pots. We had luck.  There were five keepers but we are only allowed four a day so one got a reprieve.  Fred killed & cleaned them and we cooked the crab in a pot on a propane burner in the cockpit (no smell inside the boat!).  We had a nice tour of the inlet on the dinghy and had a crab salad for dinner.  

 

Emerald Star at the base of the falls

Friday, July 8 Tom Bay to Khutze Inlet 5 ½ hours 55 miles

We are heading into one of our favorite places, Fiordland.   We are surrounded by snow capped mountains and there are many spectacular waterfalls.  We were looking for a “spirit bear” along Princess Royal Channel.   These are regular black bears that are not albinos but carry a recessive gene and are pure white.  Unfortunately we did see any kind of bear.  Khutze Inlet looks and feel like Yosemite Valley. The mountain peaks feel very close and it is so peaceful here.  As one enters the first thing you see are the snow capped mountains all around.  The inlet is 5 miles long.  Then as one nears the head of the inlet the Khutze River has created a wonderful green carpet in the shallows.  We anchored in our usual spot in front of a 1000’ waterfall.  The water is about 90’ deep here which discourages many boaters from coming in here.  The weather is rainy but we put the dinghy in the water and Fred goes and place two crab pots.  We have usually had good luck here. 

Thursday, July 7 Shearwater to Tom Bay 3 hours 26 ½ miles

The first thing we did this morning as we left the dock was to putt over to the boatyard and get Emerald Star hauled out of the water to check the thrusters.  This place is a rip-off.  It cost $650 just to haul the boat and put it back into the water.  Back in Washington it costs half that much.  I guess they can get away with the charge because they are the only game in town.  We were shocked to see that all of the bow thruster blades were broken off.  We put new ones on last month. Fred tried to reach someone at Cap Sante Marine to see if new blades could be shipped to us.  We weren’t able to make those arrangements.  Fred had them move the stern thruster props to the bow thruster.  The bow thruster is more important.  We were back in the water and on our way by 10:30 AM. This all happened after Fred had pulled the motor. Really not sure if he can get the damn thing back on. Fred made some guide pins out some bolts and literally slid the motor down his leg into the mounting. I must say this surprised me it worked so well.  We passed through a couple of beautiful, small, rocky channels (Reid Passage & Perceval Narrows) and Seaforth Channel which was open to the sea.  We encountered about 2 foot ocean swells through there. When we were in Mathieson Channel we noticed some surging of the engines. Fred checked them and found the fuel filters were almost completely blocked. We anchored early in nearby Tom Bay. Fred says we dodged a large bullet by finding this out. After things cooled down in the engine room Fred changed the Racor fuel filters on both engines.  They thanked him profusely …. 

Shearwater

Shearwater Marina

broken bow thruster blades

Emerald Star being hauled

stern thruster, moved the blades to the bow

Wednesday, July 6 Shearwater

Fred has worked very hard all day on the bow thruster.  He has done extensive internet searches and even called Cap Sante Marine in Anacortes to get advice.  The advice was not helpful. Was the problem with the thruster propellers or the connection between the thruster motor and the drive gear to the props???? Does one pull the motor (mucho heavy and awkward) or pull the boat to see what’s with the props ($$$$)???

Wednesday, June 29 Port McNeill to Allison Harbour 4 hours 36 miles Joan’s birthday…

We are unhappy because we missed a wonderful weather window to travel around Cape Caution.  The last three days here have been rainy but there was no wind.  Today as we travel across Queen Charlotte Straight the swells gradually increased to 4-5 feet.  We listened to the weather at West Sea Otter buoy and the report said the sea was 1.3 meters in height. We have learned the hard way if West Sea Otter is over one meter for get it. Emerald Star handled the rough water very well, however, Fred was at the helm and less than thrilled. Of course before we set out I secured anything loose, just in case.  Allison Harbour is very large with many good anchorage spots.  There was only one other boat in there when we arrived.  When we got settled Fred gave me my give of jewelry.  I love jewelry!  Ask my sisters or my daughter. They think I have a sickness.  We put the dinghy down with hopes of placing a crab pot and going sightseeing. Unfortunately the battery was dead so Fred hooked up the charger for while. The rain got more steady and heavy so plans of sightseeing today were put off.  After several hours of charging, the dink started and Fred took the crab trap out in the rain. 

Tuesday, July 5 Kwakume Inlet to Shearwater 3 ½ hours 35 miles

It is another rainy, foggy day, but no storm.  Shearwater is the only marina in miles & miles so we usually stop here on our way north & south. They also have a latte place, good grocery store and a nice restaurant. They also have a nice laundry facility but I use the machines on the boat (yippee!). As it turns out, they have a big boatyard. On our trip from Fittz Hugh Sound to Lama Passage we saw two humpback whales.  Just cruising, no fantastic breaching or anything.  As we approached the marina we saw that the north side of the dock was free.  The dock is a T shape and the north side is open to the wake, wind and chop.  As we were docking and Fred was in position to use the thrusters to push us in, unbeknownst to him, the bow line fell into the water and promptly  fouled the bow thruster.  !@#$  Fred got us on the dock beautifully, anyway. However, now the motor for the bow thruster works but there is no thrust.  This will be a problem for tomorrow.  There is a new Wharfinger here.  He is a pleasant fellow named Bernie.  The last two years we encountered a real sourpuss here.  The dock was about half full when we arrived.  We didn’t have a reservation so we were pleased to get on the dock.  As the afternoon progressed the dock filled up completely.  We noticed a flyer that said the “Fish on five” were performing at the pub.  When we asked what kind of music they played we were told classical so we reserved a great table near the front.  The dinner was so-so but the band was great.  They are a group of five members of the Okanagan Symphony Orchestra. The group consisted of 2 trumpets, one trombone one French horn and a small tuba thing (we really don’t know what it was).  They are on a fishing trip and are stopping at a few places along the way to perform.  Their repertoire consisted of John Philip Souza, Henry Mancini, the Beatles and various classical pieces including the William Tell Overture.   

Fish-on-Five

Monday, July 4 Allison Harbour to Kwakume Inlet 4 ½ hours 54 miles

We have been stuck in Allison Harbour since last Wednesday.  It has rained every day.  We checked the weather at least three times a day to see if we could get out and pass Cape Caution.  The wave report at West Sea Otter (the one we need to be safe for travel) has been 2-3 meters every time.  This morning the wave report was down to 1.4 meters so we headed out.  Not far out of the cove into Queen Charlotte Straight we encountered the ocean swells.  Sure enough they are over 3 feet, but not too bad.  They were not coming frequently and Emerald Star handled it very well.  The wind was not over 15 knots the whole way.  Traveling at 11-12 knots we were past Cape Caution in 3 hours.  As we turned into Fitzhugh Sound the water became almost calm.  The only traffic we saw all morning was two fishing boats and two barges.  We were going to stop at Fury Cove (lovely anchorage with a white sandy beach) but the weather was so good we headed up to Kwakume Inlet.  We entered at low tide, which means all the ugly little rocks were visible.  We anchored just inside in 58 feet of water.  We put a new Rocna anchor on the boat last winter.  We are very pleased how quickly and easily it sets up.  As soon as we anchored the heavens opened up again. Per our rain gauge we are getting approximately 1 inch of rain a day.  

Friday, July 1 Allison Harbour

The rain and waves at West Sea Otter are keeping us here another day. Fred suited up in his raingear and went out to pick up the crab pot.  We had one large male crab (females must be thrown back).  We decided to keep him and have some crab for dinner.  There is this marvelous set-up that was left on the boat when we bought it.  There is a large crab pot and a propane stove that can be used to cook crab outside instead of smelling up the inside of the boat.